Hungry for Change

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), nearly 19 million Americans nationwide live in places that have little access to healthy, affordable food. These places are often called food deserts.

In urban food deserts, at least one-third of the population lives more than a mile from the nearest supermarket. A mile may not seem like much. But many people in urban areas do not have cars. They also may lack reliable public transportation. They may need to walk, bike, or take a bus or train to get to a supermarket. Then they must carry all those groceries back home.

In rural food deserts, at least one-third of the people reside 10 miles or more from a grocery store. Many residents in those areas do not have access to transportation. They rely on gas stations or whatever stores are closest.

“It’s a huge problem,” says Erica Kenney. She is an assistant professor of public health nutrition at Harvard University in Massachusetts. “We have people who are suffering because of not having access to healthy food.”

Experts say that the type of food people eat affects everything from physical health to kids’ ability to concentrate at school. They also say something needs to be done to address the lack of nutritious offerings in many communities.

Kenney and other experts point to a variety of factors that contribute to food deserts. The main factor is money. Historically, supermarkets have not been opened in places where they will not make a big profit. Such places include low-income city neighborhoods or rural towns with few people.

In both urban and rural food deserts, residents often have low-paying jobs. They typically live paycheck to paycheck or rely on government-run programs to buy their food. Fresh options, such as eggs, meat, and vegetables, are more expensive for grocery stores to keep in stock. That is because they cannot stay on shelves for very long. As a result, those types of goods may be priced higher. This limits how much low-income customers can afford to buy. And it limits how much supermarkets can profit.

Grocery stores also tend to get a bigger return for their money on nonperishable items, which have a longer shelf life. But customers may buy those products at dollar stores instead if the prices are lower. A recent study found that dollar stores are the fastest-growing food retailers in the country, especially in rural areas.

Some dollar stores carry a small selection of fruits and vegetables. But most offer only discounted frozen meals and packaged foods. The low prices have pushed some supermarkets out of business.

Prepackaged, nonperishable foods may be cheap, but the damage from eating too many of them can be significant. These foods are often highly processed and packed with sugar, salt, and fat. They also tend to be low in important nutrients, like protein, that help us feel full and energized, says Kenney. People who eat junk food often end up craving more because they still feel hungry. The increasing reliance on such foods has led to a rise in diet-related illnesses in the U.S., including type 2 diabetes, heart disease, and obesity.

The kind of food kids and teens eat also can affect the way they perform at school. “If you don’t have enough healthy food to eat, you can really have trouble concentrating in class,” Kenney says.

Plus, worrying every day about how you are going to get healthy food can be stressful, she adds. 

“It’s not good for mental health,” Kenney explains. “It can lead to depression or anxiety.”

Prepackaged, nonperishable foods may be cheap. But the damage from eating too many of them can be major. These foods are often highly processed and packed with sugar, salt, and fat. They also tend to be low in important nutrients, like protein, that help us feel full and energized, says Kenney. People who eat junk food often end up craving more because they still feel hungry. The increasing reliance on such foods has led to a rise in diet-related illnesses in the U.S. Such illnesses include type 2 diabetes, heart disease, and obesity.

The kind of food kids and teens eat also can affect the way they perform at school. “If you don’t have enough healthy food to eat, you can really have trouble concentrating in class,” Kenney says.

Plus, worrying every day about how you are going to get healthy food can be stressful, she adds.

“It’s not good for mental health,” Kenney explains. “It can lead to depression or anxiety.”

The problem of food deserts isn’t going unnoticed—especially at a time when prices of many commonly purchased foods are higher than they’ve been for many years. Last September, U.S. President Joe Biden committed more than $8 billion in funding to end hunger nationwide by 2030. Half of that money will be directed toward efforts to expand access to healthy and affordable food.

Policymakers are also looking at ways to make grocery delivery services more affordable for people in food deserts. That includes exploring how to help low-income households with the cost of delivery fees.

Small towns from Florida to Montana are taking matters into their own hands. Many have started community-run markets to supply produce and other offerings tailored to local needs. Instead of being run by large corporations, these markets are owned by residents who share in the profits. For example, residents in Winchester, Illinois, started a community-owned market in 2018 to replace the grocery store that had closed in their town. The market’s milk comes from a local dairy, and fresh vegetables are grown on a nearby farm.

The problem of food deserts is not going unnoticed. Especially now, when prices of many commonly bought foods are higher than they have been for many years. Last September, U.S. President Joe Biden committed more than $8 billion in funding to end hunger nationwide by 2030. Half of that money will be directed toward efforts to expand access to healthy and affordable food.

Policymakers are also looking at ways to make grocery delivery services more affordable for people in food deserts. That includes exploring how to help low-income households with the cost of delivery fees.

Small towns from Florida to Montana are taking matters into their own hands. Many have started community-run markets to supply produce and other offerings tailored to local needs. These markets are not run by large corporations. Instead, they are owned by residents who share in the profits. For example, residents in Winchester, Illinois, started a community-owned market in 2018 to replace the grocery store that had closed in their town. The market’s milk comes from a local dairy. Fresh vegetables are grown on a nearby farm.

In other places, organizations are redirecting extra food from farms and stores to local people in need. Such food is often good quality, but it gets discarded because it is misshapen or close to the expiration date. 

Cities and towns are also starting farmers’ markets to bring in fresh options to food deserts. And in many communities, like Alex’s neighborhood, mobile markets are selling fruits and vegetables from carts and trucks at reduced prices to help ease the problem. 

“It seems like the places that are having the most successes are where people in the community have come together and worked on a solution together,” Kenney says. 

In other places, organizations are redirecting extra food from farms and stores to local people in need. Such food is often good quality, but it gets tossed out because it is misshapen or close to the expiration date.

Cities and towns are also starting farmers’ markets to bring in fresh options to food deserts. And in many communities, like Alex’s neighborhood, mobile markets are selling fruits and vegetables from carts and trucks. The prices are reduced to help ease the problem.

“It seems like the places that are having the most successes are where people in the community have come together and worked on a solution together,” Kenney says.

The urban gardens Alex helped grow in New York City are also continuing to fill the fresh-food gap in his area. Learning Gardens, a City Parks Foundation program, teaches thousands of students to grow kale, tomatoes, cantaloupe, and more.

Helping young people see the potential of local gardens—and teaching them how to grow healthy food—shows them ways they can improve lives in their community, explains Shari Rose. She is the program’s associate director of environmental education. 

Alex couldn’t agree more. “We are taking that power back in what we eat and how we live,” he says. “You don’t just have to sit there and buy frozen chicken nuggets every night. You can have meals that are fresh.”

The urban gardens Alex helped grow in New York City are also continuing to fill the fresh-food gap in his area. Learning Gardens is a City Parks Foundation program. It teaches thousands of students to grow kale, tomatoes, cantaloupe, and more.

Helping young people see the potential of local gardens—and teaching them how to grow healthy food—shows them ways they can improve lives in their community, explains Shari Rose. She is the program’s associate director of environmental education.

Alex could not agree more. “We are taking that power back in what we eat and how we live,” he says. “You don’t just have to sit there and buy frozen chicken nuggets every night. You can have meals that are fresh.”